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What’s Super White? 什麼是超級白葡萄?

在20世紀60年代末,意大利Collio產區的制酒商馬里奧·席奧佩托(Mario Schiopetto)以及隨後的其他生產商如利維奧·費魯加(Livio Felluga),為現代意大利白葡萄酒製作樹立了標準。席奧佩托受到德國釀酒實踐的影響,引入了溫控發酵、不鏽鋼設備、制冷裝置、氣動壓榨機和無菌灌裝等技術。這些技術的引入旨在避免葡萄酒與氧氣接觸。同時,他們也更加關注葡萄園的管理,引入了更高的種植密度和以最佳成熟度為目標的收穫標準。


這種對白葡萄酒生產的技術方法產生了清新、乾淨、芳香,且品種特徵明顯的葡萄酒。這些酒避免了蘋果酸-乳酸發酵,並且沒有使用橡木桶。馬里奧·席奧佩托的工作推動了弗留利酒窖的質量革命。今天,Collio和Colli Orientali del Friuli的酒窖因其現代化和技術先進而著稱。


20世紀70年代以來,弗留利以其白葡萄酒而商業成功並廣受歡迎。90年代起,其他意大利白葡萄酒產區開始模仿所謂的「弗留利風格」。


然而,弗留利的成功不僅僅依賴技術,還在於弗留利釀酒師的心態和細節關注,他們不斷地改進葡萄園和酒窖的最佳實踐。有些制酒商,如約斯科·格拉夫納(Josko Gravner)和斯坦科·拉多孔(Stanko Radikon),甚至採用了基於傳統的最小干預釀酒技術。他們生產的所謂「橙色葡萄酒」顏色深黃金,帶有一定的氧化程度和強烈的酚類特徵。


20世紀70年代末,制酒商耶爾曼(Jermann)創造了複雜的本土和國際白葡萄品種混合釀造的Vintage Tunina,成為弗留利優質白葡萄酒混合釀造的標誌。這些超級白葡葡萄酒代表了意大利目前生產的一些最複雜和結構豐富的白葡萄酒。它們通常分為兩大類:一類是在不鏽鋼中發酵的強烈芳香、活潑的混合酒;另一類是在橡木桶中發酵和陳年的更豐富的混合酒,有時會加入晚收果實以增加更多的深度和複雜性。這兩種風格的超級白葡萄酒通常具有更長的陳年潛力。


這些超級白葡萄酒大多在Collio、Friuli Colli Orientali和Venezia Giulia IGT的DOCs下的bianco類別中標記。總的來說,這些技術的引入和不斷的創新使得弗留利成為了意大利一些最具特色的白葡萄酒的家園。


In the late 1960s, Mario Schiopetto, a winemaker from the Collio region in Italy, along with others like Livio Felluga, set the standards for modern white winemaking in Italy. Influenced by German winemaking practices, Schiopetto introduced techniques such as temperature-controlled fermentation, stainless steel equipment, refrigeration, pneumatic presses, and sterile bottling to prevent oxygen contact with the wine. Additionally, they focused more on vineyard management, introducing higher planting densities and harvest parameters targeting optimal ripeness.


These technological approaches to white wine production resulted in fresh, clean, aromatic wines with distinctive varietal characteristics. These wines avoided malolactic fermentation and were not aged in oak barrels. Mario Schiopetto’s work led to a quality revolution in Friuli’s cellars. Today, the cellars in Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli are renowned for their modernity and advanced technology.


Since the 1970s, Friuli has achieved commercial success and popularity for its white wines. Starting in the 1990s, other Italian white wine regions began adopting the so-called “Friuli style.”


However, Friuli’s success is not only due to its technology but also to the mindset and attention to detail of Friulian winemakers, who continuously improve practices in both vineyards and cellars. Some winemakers, like Josko Gravner and Stanko Radikon, even adopted traditional, minimally invasive winemaking techniques. Their so-called “orange wines” are deep yellow-gold in color with a certain level of oxidation and strong phenolic characteristics.


In the late 1970s, winemaker Jermann created Vintage Tunina, a complex blend of local and international white grape varieties, becoming a hallmark of Friuli’s premium white wine blends. These “super-white” wines represent some of the most complex and structured white wines currently produced in Italy. They are generally divided into two main categories: intensely aromatic and lively blends fermented in stainless steel, and richer blends fermented and aged in oak barrels, sometimes incorporating late-harvest fruit for added depth and complexity. Both styles of these super-whites tend to have a longer aging potential.


Most of these super-white wines are labeled under the bianco category within the DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) of Collio, Friuli Colli Orientali, and the Venezia Giulia IGT. In summary, the introduction of these technologies and continuous innovation have made Friuli the home to some of the most distinctive white wines in Italy.

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